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My heater is staying on standby (Amber light)

Please follow the below troubleshooting steps to resolve this issue:

Do you have a 24-hour time clock incorporated into the front of the heater? If so ensure that the manual override switch is in the very top position or is in a timed on period and that the clock is set to the correct time. If you do not have a time clock this does not apply to you.

The next thing to check is the direction the water is travelling through the heater. As you look at the front of the heater:
Is the water entering on the left and exiting on the right? If so this is the factory default direction and you should not need to make any adjustments to the flow switch position.
Is the water entering on the right and exiting on the left? If so the flow switch will need to be rotated through 180° as explained in the installation & operating manual.

The flow switch is the black component on the right hand side of the heater that has a cable coming out of it and going back into the electrical enclosure. There is an arrow moulded into the top of the flow switch casing, this should be pointing in exactly the same direction as the water is travelling through the heater.

If the flow switch is in the correct orientation:
If you are using a cartridge filter try completely removing the cartridge from your pump and filter unit & operate it purely as a pump. If you are using a sand filter move the multi-port valve to the re-circulate position to achieve the same outcome.
This will deliver the heater with the maximum velocity of water that the pump is capable of, if the heater then switches on then the cartridge will need to be cleaned or replaced. Or in the case of a sand filter a backwash is required or you may need to replace the sand in your filter.

NB - when the pool has first been filled for the season the paper cartridges should be cleaned every 12-hours for the first 3 to 4 days as tap water is heavily laden with minerals, so your cartridge may appear visually clean but it is actually chocked with natural minerals found in tap water. After this initial period the minerals will be removed and you can clean the cartridge as normal.

The above is just a test and you should not run the pump without the filter for extended periods as you will be supplying the heater with unfiltered, debris laden water and this will affect the warranty of the heater if it is used in this way. The heater must only be supplied with clean filtered water.

If the heater does not switch on:
Turn the pump and filter off but leave the heater switched on, then carefully remove the flow switch from the end fitting to reveal the paddle that the water pushes on. Take care as a small amount of water loss will occur (you may wish to have someone with you to cover the hole the flow switch leaves when removed, although this can be done by one person if required)

Firstly check that the paddle is not obstructed by any debris or foreign bodies – then gently push the paddle with your finger to simulate water flow – if the heater switches on, instantly release the paddle as the heater will be heating static water. You have confirmed that the heater is working and is not receiving sufficient flow. If this is the case a replacement pump and filter will be required that is capable of delivering at least the minimum flow requirement the heater requires – we would advise that you source a pump that delivers ideally 3m³/h (3,000-litres per hour) more than the minimum where possible.

NB – Far Eastern manufactured cartridge filters flow rates very often begin to reduce dramatically after the first season, water seeps into the pump workings and starts to harden the grease that is supposed to lubricate the impeller (the part that turns and ‘pushes’ the water) this offers a huge restriction to the pump operation and causes the flow velocity generated to plummet.

If you have attempted all of the above without success the only remaining component is the thermal safety cut-out that requires a manual reset. The button to carry out the reset is located under a black cover to the lower right hand side of the control thermostat, remove the black plastic cover and press the red button in. If you do not feel a click then the unit has not tripped. If a click is felt then the unit had overheated and the cause needs to be investigated and resolved, it may be caused by an air pocket trapped inside the heater or a build up on the heating element. If the cause is not found and rectified the heating element will eventually overheat and need to be replaced.

The water entering my pool doesn't feel warm

The temperature gain of the water after it has passed through the heater will be directly proportional to the volume of water being pumped in relationship to the power output of the heater. 
For example: A 6-kW heater, when connected to a 4000-litre per hour pump, will produce a lift in temperature of approximately 1.2°C (almost undetectable to the human hand). However, as the water being heated is recirculated from a single body of water, the time required to heat it remains unaffected by the volume of flow. A popular misconception is that slowing down the flow rate will speed up the heating process, this is not the case.

My pool's flexible pipe is slightly larger than the fittings supplied

The connections supplied with your Elecro heater are a stepped 1¼" BSP & 1½" BSP (British Standard Pipe). Unfortunately Intex have changed the pipe work on some of their systems to a non-standard size i.e. 42-mm. It is possible to make a correct connection to the 1½" (38-mm) part of the hosetail using 2 jubilee clips & silicone sealant at each side of the heater.
 
If you are unable to achieve this you will need to source a connection / adapter that goes from 1½" BSP male thread to the size you require for your pipe work, you could try plumbing merchants or your local swimming pool shop.

If you do not wish to cut the return pipe to the pool then adapters are available that will reduce the thread from the 1.5" BSP to suit the intex female thread please see the link below: www.intexspares.co.uk/proddetail.asp?prod=CON001

My RCD keeps tripping

Firstly we need to identify the cause of the RCD tripping. The only component within the heater that can cause a RCD to trip is the heating element(s) as all other components are electrically isolated.

If the heating element(s) in your Elecro heater has developed an earth fault then the red light on the heater will not come on at all, as soon as you turn the thermostat above the water temperature and the amber light goes out, the RCD in the house would then instantly trip - if this is the case then it is most likely that the heating element has developed an earth fault & it would be best to return the heater to us for inspection so we can investigate what has caused the failure.

If however the red light does come on (even if only for a few minutes) then the most likely cause will be moisture either inside the heater electrical enclosure or in one of the junction box's / sockets supplying the heater - if this is the case then you will need to dry out the moisture. If moisture is not the cause then it could be that the RCD itself has started to fail and needs to be tested / replaced.

If you need to return the heater to us you can find details of our repair service here: 

How do I clean the heating element(s)

To remove debris build up: Take both plastic threaded end fittings off of the heater (undo the long tie bars) to provide you with maximum access to the heaters flow tube. Then use a long flat blade screwdriver to physically remove the debris build up. We recommend that you replace both end fitting gaskets at this stage as it will be very difficult to achieve a correct seal with the compressed old gaskets (these can be purchased directly from our office). 

Can I plug the heater in?

The largest power output heater that can be plugged in via a standard 3-pin domestic plug is 3-kW (13-Amp). Heaters 4.5-kW and greater will need to be hard wired back to the property's main electricity meter by a qualified electrician, in the same way as an electric cooker or shower would be wired.

No lights are illuminating on my heater

Possible cause: Power Failure external to the heater:
Check any fuses, RCD or other switch components installed in the supply cable. 
NOTE: the heater is not fitted with a fuse.

If the supply appears to be OK, isolate the power to the heater then remove the front cover to check that the neon indicator lamps have not become detached from their lenses, the indication lamps may be illuminating but can not be seen as they have become detached from their lens.

What do the lights on my heater mean?

EVO heaters are fitted with Amber and Red neon indicators:

Amber = Standby Mode (no / insufficient flow, temperature achieved, timed off or safety thermal cut out tripped)

Red = Heating (elements energised)

In-Line+ heaters do not have a standby light but has several status indicators located to the side of the digital thermostat display. The Red neon for the In-Line+ heater also means Heating, for further information please view the installation and operating manual

How do I test if my heater is working?

Quick Function Test

Observe the property’s main electricity meter when the heater is on (i.e. red light on) and then observe it again when the heater is in the standby mode (i.e. yellow light on). The test should show that the meter is recording more electricity being used by the heater when the red light is on. 
It is impossible for an electric heater to waste energy, if it is drawing power then that power will be turned into heat that will be transferred to the water.

Accurate Function Test

If a more accurate test is required to confirm that your heater is delivering the specified heat output, two electricity meter readings will need to be taken from the property’s main electricity meter, with an exact one hour interval (i.e. take one meter reading and then a second reading exactly one hour later). Then  by subtracting the first reading from the second reading the number of units (kilo watts kW) consumed can be calculated. Note that your heater is also rated in kW hours. The pool pump and heater will need to be running continuously during the test (i.e. with the heater red light on). 
To avoid inaccurate results when performing this test, it is important to refrain from using other high current drawing appliances in the property (such as tumble dryer, showers, cooker etc).

The flow tube does not feel warm

Due to the high efficiency of your Elecro heater no warmth should be detectable from the flow tube of the heater. 
The most likely causes of the flow tube feeling warm are 
Possible Cause 1.) The heater has been positioned in direct sunlight.
Possible Cause 2.) An air pocket is trapped inside the heater, particularly if the tank feels warmer at the highest point of the tank (as air rises). 
Possible Cause 3.) A build up has formed around the heating element and needs to be removed / cleaned.

If you have a question that is not answered here please email technical@elecro.co.uk