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My RCD keeps tripping?

Firstly we need to identify the cause of the RCD tripping. The only component within the heater that can cause a RCD to trip is the heating element(s) as all other components are electrically isolated.

If the heating element(s) in your Elecro heater has developed an earth fault then the red light on the heater will not come on at all, as soon as you set the thermostat above the water temperature and the amber light goes out, the RCD in the house would then instantly trip - if this is the case then it is most likely that the heating element has developed an earth fault & it would be best to return the heater to us for inspection so we can investigate what has caused the failure.

If however the red light does come on (even if only for a few minutes) then the most likely cause will be moisture either inside the heater electrical enclosure or in one of the junction box's / sockets supplying the heater - if this is the case then you will need to dry out the moisture. If moisture is not the cause then it could be that the RCD itself has started to fail and needs to be tested / replaced.

If you need to return the heater to us you can find details of our repair service here

My heater is staying on standby (Amber light)

Please follow the below troubleshooting steps to resolve this issue:

Do you have a 24-hour time clock incorporated into the front of the heater? If so ensure that the manual override switch is in the very top position or is in a timed on period and that the clock is set to the correct time. If you do not have a time clock this does not apply to you.

The next thing to check is the direction the water is travelling through the heater. As you look at the front of the heater:
Is the water entering on the left and exiting on the right? If so this is the factory default direction and you should not need to make any adjustments to the flow switch position.
Is the water entering on the right and exiting on the left? If so the flow switch will need to be rotated through 180° as explained in the installation & operating manual.

The flow switch is the black component on the right hand side of the heater that has a cable coming out of it and going back into the electrical enclosure. There is an arrow moulded into the top of the flow switch casing, this should be pointing in exactly the same direction as the water is travelling through the heater.

If the flow switch is in the correct orientation:
If you are using a cartridge filter try completely removing the cartridge from your pump and filter unit & operate it purely as a pump. If you are using a sand filter move the multi-port valve to the re-circulate position to achieve the same outcome.
This will deliver the heater with the maximum velocity of water that the pump is capable of, if the heater then switches on then the cartridge will need to be cleaned or replaced. Or in the case of a sand filter a backwash is required or you may need to replace the sand in your filter.

If the heater does not switch on:
Turn the pump and filter off but leave the heater switched on, then carefully remove the flow switch from the end fitting to reveal the paddle that the water pushes on. Take care as a small amount of water loss will occur (you may wish to have someone with you to cover the hole the flow switch leaves when removed, although this can be done by one person if required)

Firstly check that the paddle is not obstructed by any debris or foreign bodies – then gently push the paddle with your finger to simulate water flow – if the heater switches on, instantly release the paddle as the heater will be heating static water. You have confirmed that the heater is working and is not receiving sufficient flow. If this is the case a replacement pump and filter will be required that is capable of delivering at least the minimum flow requirement the heater requires – we would advise that you source a pump that delivers ideally 3m³/h (3,000-litres per hour) more than the minimum where possible.If you have attempted all of the above without success the only remaining component is the thermal safety cut-out that requires a manual reset. The button to carry out the reset is located under a black cover to the lower right hand side of the control thermostat, remove the black plastic cover and press the red button in. If you do not feel a click then the unit has not tripped. If a click is felt then the unit had overheated and the cause needs to be investigated and resolved, it may be caused by an air pocket trapped inside the heater or a build up on the heating element. If the cause is not found and rectified the heating element will eventually overheat and need to be replaced.

My high limit thermal cut-out keeps tripping

The high limiting thermal cut-out fitted to your heater is pre-set to 55°C. The only way the flow tube of your heater can reach this temperature is either an air pocket at the top of the heater flow tube or a debris build up around the heating element.

To release any trapped air: slightly elevate the exit port of the heater, air naturally rises and will be encouraged out when you do this.

To remove debris build up: Take both plastic threaded end fittings off of the heater (undo the long tie bars) to provide you with maximum access to the heater's flow tube. Then use a long flat blade screwdriver to physically remove the debris build up. We recommend that you replace both end fitting gaskets at this stage as it will be very difficult to achieve a correct seal with the compressed old gaskets (these can be purchased directly from our office). 

How do I clean the heating element(s)?

To remove debris build up: Take both plastic threaded end fittings off of the heater (undo the long tie bars) to provide you with maximum access to the heaters flow tube. Then use a long flat blade screwdriver to physically remove the debris build up. We recommend that you replace both end fitting gaskets at this stage as it will be very difficult to achieve a correct seal with the compressed old gaskets (these can be purchased directly from our office). 

Water doesn't feel warm

The temperature gain of the water after it has passed through the heater will be directly proportional to the volume of water being pumped in relationship to the power output of the heater. 
For example: A 6-kW heater, when connected to a 4000-litre per hour pump, will produce a lift in temperature of approximately 1.2°C (almost undetectable to the human hand). However, as the water being heated is recirculated from a single body of water, the time required to heat it remains unaffected by the volume of flow. A popular misconception is that slowing down the flow rate will speed up the heating process, this is not the case.

How do I test if my heater is working?

Quick Function Test

Observe the property’s main electricity meter when the heater is on (i.e. red light on) and then observe it again when the heater is in the standby mode (i.e. yellow light on). The test should show that the meter is recording more electricity being used by the heater when the red light is on. 
It is impossible for an electric heater to waste energy, if it is drawing power then that power will be turned into heat that will be transferred to the water.

Accurate Function Test

If a more accurate test is required to confirm that your heater is delivering the specified heat output, two electricity meter readings will need to be taken from the property’s main electricity meter, with an exact one hour interval (i.e. take one meter reading and then a second reading exactly one hour later). Then  by subtracting the first reading from the second reading the number of units (kilo watts kW) consumed can be calculated. Note that your heater is also rated in kW hours. The pool pump and heater will need to be running continuously during the test (i.e. with the heater red light on). 

To avoid inaccurate results when performing this test, it is important to refrain from using other high current drawing appliances in the property (such as tumble dryer, showers, cooker etc).If you have a question that is not answered here please email technical@elecro.co.uk